
DISCLAIMER: I lived in Santa Cruz 1987-1992. I do not pretend to be a surfer, because I am not one. I have, however, done a lot of body surfing and body boarding (boogie boarding) in Hawaii and Santa Cruz. Plus as a marine biologist I have spent considerable amounts of time near, in, and on the ocean. With that being said...
"Chasing Mavericks" is probably the best surfing movie I have ever seen. This biopic of young Jay Moriarity and his mentor Frosty Hesson delves into the psyche and spiritual basis of surfing better than any other surfing movie.
Gerard Butler turns in a stellar performance as the sage surfer who reluctantly agrees to train a teenager to surf one of the most dangerous waves in the world Mavericks.
To "get" this movie you have to understand this wave.
Mavericks is surf break just north of Half Moon Bay, CA. It breaks only when the surge is big enough and comes from the right direction. Most offshore breaks occur over reefs that are 20 feet deep or less (e.g., Pipeline, on the north shore of Oahu), but the reef at Mavericks is twice that deep. This means that it takes a huge wave to break there.
In addition to the deep reef at Mavericks, there is an unusual underwater rock formation that helps big waves set up and break. There is a sloping ramp of rock that approaches the shallow water inshore. The water to the right and left of this ramp is deep. The shallower water slows a wave, makes it stand up, and then plunge over explosively. The deep water on either side keeps the focus of the wave in one location.
This combination of factors produces waves that can be 20-80' feet tall, and is one of the most dangerous places to surf in the world. There are only a few places in the world with waves in this size class. OK, back to the movie.
Young Jay Moriarity, like just about every other surfer along the central California coast those days had heard rumors of a giant wave, but it was dismissed largely as myth. One day though, Jay discovers someone who rides that wave Frosty Hesson and Jay sees the wave and Frosty and his surfing partners ride the wave at Mavericks. It takes some doing, but Frosty is finally convinced to train Jay for Mavericks.
This movie is about what it takes to prepare not to ride a wave like Mavericks, but how to increase your chances of surviving it. That preparation requires physical, mental, spiritual, etc., development.
There is a good dose of surfing in the movie, and while there is a strong mental and spiritual component to the movie, it does not come across as eclectic or preachy. it's just downright amazing!
The sheer force and presence of the wave is awe-inspiring, and the willingness and ability of a small handful of big-wave surfers who challenge it and ride it are beyond impressive. It borders the miraculous.
I mean, I've been held down by a waves in the 6-8' range in Hawaii, so it's nearly impossible to imagine the amount of force in a wave the size of Mavericks. It's a wave that you feel more than you hear or see it. Sheer power!
This is a movie experience not to be missed!
5 stars all the way, and I'll be buying a copy of this movie ASAP.I've found that many of the "sleeper" type movies turn out to be awesome films. I'm far from being a professional movie critic, but I enjoy films that are exciting and inspirational. Chasing Mavericks was no exception. Great movie and I am looking forward to the Blu Ray release.
Buy Chasing Mavericks (2013) Now
Well done! Can't wait for it to come out on Blu-Ray! I am so glad that I got to see this movie on the big screen. It didn't stay in the theaters very long. Too bad for that since it was a beautiful, inspiring, humorous, emotional (a few tears) and well done movie about surfing and relationships. If you only like coastal northern California's beautiful scenery and wave action that would be enough to enjoy this movie. Add the real life story line of a father-son mentorship of Frosty Hesson and Jay Moriarity and this become so much more. My friends and family loved this movie. Gerard Butler did a fantastic job in portraying Frosty and braved huge waves to show audiences the powerful, dangerous side of surfing.....he almost drowned during the filming. This movie deserves multiple viewings and will make a great gift. Hope the DVD has a lot of extras attached!March 4, 2013........Well it is a few months later and I finally received the Bluray! Absolute blown away with the photography, sound and extraordinary effort in making this movie. The Incredible extra features have made this movie even better than watching it the first time!So, yes, this movie version of Jay's life starts out like the Karate Kid, the grouchy older guy teaching the "kid" all those life lessons complete with the bullies and the messed up Mom, but this movie is more than all this typical stuff. Why? because they somehow managed to capture the spirit of Jay Moriarity, a young man whose smile Johnny Weston, who played him, managed to capture. This is a movie about a nice young man, even the "bully" is won over (without getting "beat" up), who went for his dream and made it happen. I've been lucky enough to have actually been to Mavericks as a spectator (2008, and things were pretty crazy), and in the '60's I actually surfed long boards at the Wedge (Newport) and Little Corona right after the quake in Alaska, but those waves I ended up under were nothing to what I saw at Mavericks. I gave this movie 4 stars because the real story of Jay's life and his relationship with Frosty didn't need the whole Karate Kid type angle. No sex, no bad words, no violence, this is a movie about a young man striving for something he really wants to achieve, and yes, the end will leave you with a lump in your throat and maybe tears but watch it with your family. And, then, check out the Mavericks and look up Jay, they still love him in Santa Cruz and Half Moon Bay. Oh, watch out for those sneaker waves, they will get you.I took my whole family to see this movie when it was at the theaters and we all really liked it. It was not at the theaters very long and I cannot understand why. I have surfed in the past and have always had a fascination with Mavericks. We liked the story and really liked the surf scenes. Good wholesome movie--maybe that is why it was not a theaters long.
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